The big end bearing surfaces were tinned with white metal using a soldering iron.The caps were installed on the rods with 1mm. aluminium shims. Both sides of the big ends were then filed flat. Two thick aluminium washers were made to contain the white metal.The white metal ingot was melted and poured slowly into a bucket of water to form granules. These granules were packed into the big end space between the aluminium washers clamped very tight with a 5mm. bolt This must be a water tight seal to retain the molten bearing metal. The rods were spun in the lathe on the fixture previously shown.Melting of the metal was acheived using a Mapp gas torch while the rod was spun at about 1000 rpm.Potentionally this is a dangerous operation.
The result was excellent as the metal is solid and all impurities finish up on the inside.Using the same fixture the big ends where bored to fit the crank journals
The block on the caps used in the manufacture were drilled and reduced to make oil scoops for oiling.
Where did you learn how to do that? There is no end to your cunning! Well done, Dave.
ReplyDeleteFritz
ReplyDeleteIt is best to always centrifical cast bearing metal if possible as the metal is solid,no impurities and no air bubbles.If you do need to cast bearings say for veteran cars or reline slipper bearing on later model cars it is worth while to mount an electric motor vertical in a drum.A disc on the shaft is needed.It is best to use a 3 phase motor with a VFD to control the speed as connecting rods will need to be counter balanced.
Regards
Lindsay Drabsch